With Ramzan coming in a couple of days, I thought it would be appropriate to post this Tamil Muslim Mutton Kuruma. When it comes to non-vegetarian cooking, especially mutton, the best dishes can usually be found in Tamil Muslim cooking. They have their unique flavour, and Tamil Muslim cooks are hired to prepare meat dishes even for non-Muslim celebrations. I had previously posted my modified versions of a few of Fathima Shajahan’s recipes. This dish is also from her A-1 Muslim Samayal book. I have taken the liberty of modifying certain steps to make cooking easier. This is a flavourful dish which looks as rich as it tastes and is a wonderful complement to my Birinji Rice.
Manappadu is a fishing town in the deep south of Tamil Nadu with a predominantly Catholic population. My husband’s friend, Rex Rodrigo, hails from Manappadu and his grandfather started Thomas Rodrigo & Sons in Chennai to provide worship supplies for the Catholic community here and in Sri Lanka. When I got married, Rex invited us to his house for dinner, and his wife Germaine had prepared this fabulous mutton curry. I was stunned and delighted by its heavenly flavour and immediately got the recipe from her. It has been with me for 50 years and I have tried the same with beef, but I was not satisfied and prefer the mutton flavour.
This is one of 3 recipes that I managed to get from my husband’s friend’s Mangalorean bride, Grace Bhasker, who was renowned for her cooking. I am very pleased with this recipe because it has a rich, enticing flavour. I have maintained the ingredients as given by her but extensively simplified the method to improve cooking time.
When I was leafing through the book Cuisine from Coorg, I was intrigued to see a different combination of spices in the making of Yarchi Pulav (yarchi means meat in Coorg). The method of making this pulav was in the traditional way of straining the rice when three-fourths cooked, then adding to the gravy for further cooking. I feel that this method is very tedious especially when you do not have a very large kitchen. Therefore I changed the cooking method to boiling the gravy and water, and then adding the rice to it. In this way, you shorten the cooking time and avoid a mess in the kitchen. I have used spice powders because they are easily available now. I have also introduced curds to marinate the meat to tenderise it. This has made this recipe much easier to prepare.
This recipe was a Christmas treat in my family when I was growing up in Thirunelveli, but my mother did not make it on Christmas as there was already so much work to be done. Instead she would make it between Christmas and New Year. I simplified this traditional recipe a lot, allowing me to easily make it on Christmas Day as the main dish in the feast. This is traditionally served with the hot and sweet Inji Thuvaiyal (recipe below) and Thayir Pachadi.
I have a habit of copying interesting recipes which are different from my family’s traditional dishes. This recipe comes from Your Food and You written and published by Mrs. H. K. Philip (maybe in the 1940s), who was a well known social worker. Her recipes used traditional and comparative units of measure and random procedures, which I had to standardise through repeated experiments. I was impressed by the recipe because it was very simple compared to dishes typically made here, combines potatoes with meatballs and does not use coconut.
Easter is approaching, and all those who have given up eating meat, fish, and poultry will be anxious to get back on the wagon! This simple mutton fry is my grandmother’s signature dish. She used to use ghee and gingelly oil together to cook the meat. I last enjoyed her cooking 65 years ago and recently standardised this dish from a recipe my mother had noted, so it’s a trip down memory lane for me.
In Tamil Nadu, especially in Thirunelveli, vegetables are added to extend meat preparations. This is a recipe, a mild curry, which is used repeatedly in my family. My mother had written it down giving suggestions for the type of vegetables which can be used. She had mentioned, apart from peas and cabbage, French beans, snake gourd, radish, and even cluster beans. Apart from peas and cabbage the rest are not very popular with my children 🙂 I therefore tweaked the recipe to accommodate their preferences and changed the procedure to suit the modern Indian kitchen, such as including pressure cooking.
January and February are the months when the markets in Tamil Nadu receive the freshest of the so-called English Vegetables. As a child I used to look forward to these months when we used to have peas and cauliflower very often in the menus. The peas are luscious and the cauliflower is so creamy white and crisp. In Palayamkottai (my hometown) Rich Peas Pulav and Muttai Cauliflower used to be prepared every week. My mother had a collection of recipes using these vegetables. One of the favourites was meat cooked along with peas, cauliflower, and, of course, potatoes that are always combined with meat.
Markandam means thoracic cavity in Tamil. It consists of the ribs and the muscles on them. My grandmother used to prepare this breastbone curry whenever we were recovering from an illness. She believed that the minerals from the bones helped to build immunity. That is why it is called ‘Rasam’ meaning extract. Because it is rasam, the gravy is quite thin in spite of the coconut added to it. It is my favourite mutton preparation, and I used to pester my mother to make it even when we were not ill. Having piping hot markandam rasam with piping hot rice in winter is absolutely divine 🙂